BY MILES LAYTON

WINDSOR – Wanting to check off riding the Sans Souci Ferry off my bucket list, my wife Nicole and I took a day trip Saturday through Bertie County.  

I’ve taken many ferry rides in places such as Sistersville, WV, over the Ohio River; Fredericktown, Pa, across the Monogahela River; Beaufort County, NC – Bayview to Aurora, across the Pamlico River; and certainly the ferry from Swan Quarter to Ocracoke in Hyde County. Check out our video of the Sans Souci Ferry!

When our day trip began in Edenton, we traveled west up US 17, then traveled south on US 13 to Windsor, the county seat of around 2,300 people. We had lunch at China King on S. King Street in the heart of downtown near shops, the courthouse and historic homes. The food was good – big egg rolls – and we got in and out for less than $20.  

Bertie Ledger has moved — it’s sad seeing another empty newspaper office in Eastern NC. 

Trigger warning to some – Bertie County’s Confederate statue is across the street, close to the county courthouse. I knew the memorial was there at the intersection of Dundee and South King streets, but I hadn’t visited Windsor in a few years, so I assumed it was probably moved, especially since I didn’t see any insulting billboards like there are leading into Edenton, but no, the statue is still there. 

If the statue hadn’t been there, I wouldn’t have been inspired to learn more about Bertie’s role in the Civil War. According to UNC-Chapel Hill’s “Commemorative Landscapes of North Carolina” – here is a history lesson about the statue. 

The monument was unveiled on August 13, 1896, with a reported four thousand people attending. The featured address was given by former Confederate General and then United States Senator William Bate of Tennessee. Several generations of his forebears, including his father, had lived in Bertie County, and a public reception was given on the evening of the dedication to honor him. Two Bertie County survivors of Pickett’s Charge at Gettysburg were also on the speaker’s stand. After the unveiling and prior to the featured address Democratic candidate for Lt. Gov. Thomas W. Mason gave the monument presentation speech. Also featured was an original poem by John E. Tyler entitled “Bertie at Gettysburg” – click the link to read that poem.  

Here’s a stanza from that poem –

Fearless and proud is the OLD NORTH STATE

  Whatever the odds may be;

And true to the death were the thirty-eight

  The brave men of Bertie.

Next to the statue is the Bertie County Courthouse, a striking example of Victorian-era design, completed in 1889 and still in use today. Surrounding structures showcase a blend of Colonial Revival, Classical, and vernacular styles, each telling a story of the town’s growth through agriculture, river trade, and resilience after devastating floods.

Windsor’s brick storefronts, ornamental cornices, and arched windows reveal the influence of early 20th-century commercial design, while wooden-frame homes and churches on adjacent streets speak to a rural past rooted in craftsmanship and community spirit. Preservation efforts have helped retain the district’s character, with many buildings restored to reflect their original details.

Saturday, walking through downtown Windsor feels like traveling through a living museum—where every architectural detail offers a window into the town’s historic soul and its enduring place in North Carolina’s cultural landscape. We totally need to visit downtown again!

But after we did our walk and talked about fantastic homes downtown, we plugged in the GPS and traveled to the Sans Souci Ferry — a rare, scenic crossing of the Cashie River where time seems to stand still.

Located just a few miles outside Windsor, deep in the country that’s filled with tobacco fields and forests, the ferry serves as both a transportation tool and a cherished symbol of Bertie County’s rural charm. To be precise, so that you don’t have to fumble with stupid GPS that may list all the places in the world named Sans Souci, the ferry is located at 2298 Woodard Road about 10 miles south of Windsor.

The ferry isn’t always in operation. We passed a light on Woodard Road — if it is flashing, that means the ferry is running. That said, high river levels, mechanical issues, or flooding can cause temporary closures.

The name “Sans Souci,” meaning “without worry” in French, perfectly captures the spirit of this riverside tradition. There is no toll, no bridge, and no rush — just a short, tranquil ride connecting two gravel roads with nothing but the sound of rippling water and chirping birds.

The ferry is operated by the North Carolina Department of Transportation (NCDOT) and can carry up to two vehicles at a time. Powered by a cable system and controlled by a small engine, the ferry glides slowly across the river under the watchful eye of a single ferry operator. Its crossing typically takes around 3-5 minutes, though riders often linger to snap photos or simply enjoy the quiet as I did.  

There was a guy who piloted the ferry – it was neat – I wish I had that job. Beautiful expanse of river – probably going to go kayaking there. The ride is free, but then as Chris De Burgh sings, “Don’t Pay the Ferryman – don’t even fix a price until he gets you to the other side.”  That ferry is a quiet marvel nestled in the woods — proving that even in 2025, the best parts of travel may not be the fastest, but the most memorable.

For locals, I suspect they use the ferry to bypass longer drives into Windsor or to explore the backroads of Bertie County. Driving the back roads is a good way to clear your head, maybe praise God and think about what’s important.

Once we crossed the river, we traveled to Plymouth, but that’s a story for another day.